Tag Archives: NYFW

Kanye West x Adidas Originals ‘FA15

_AG18845 _AG18848 _AG18853 _AG18856 _AG18874 _AG18911 _AG18941 _AG18973 _AG18977 _AG18986 _AG19010 _AG19057 _AG19062 _AG19105 _AG19114 _AG19140 _AG19179 _AG19193True to form, our boy Yeezy has had quite the week. Leading up to his career-shifting New York Fashion Week preview, the rapper/producer/artist/designer was uncensored regarding his views on the widely critiqued randomness of the Grammy Awards selection process. In case you haven’t turned on a computer in a week, Kanye crept up on the ‘Album of the Year’ winner, Beck in a fake-out “imma’ let you finish” Taylor Swift move, but promptly returned to his seat laughing. It was his post-show commentary honesty that has once again baited KanYHaters into a frenzy – suggesting that he is spoiled and flat out wrong for requesting that Beck and the Grammy’s “respect artistry” and that this year’s winner acknowledge that Beyonce in fact had the best album the year. Unfortunately Ye’s views aren’t arguable – most Beck fans admit that this album is one of his least compelling, and we all know how the world a.k.a. internet stopped when Bey dropped her visual album. As expected the media and bloggosphere are focusing on Kanye’s ferver, cadence, and the style used when he approaches these truth’s, more than his statement.

Style is so much a part of what makes Kanye West, Kanye West. There are few artists who can produce, rap, sing, draw, paint, storyboard concerts and videos, and design collections, AND go on rants about the injustices of couture and music at the same time. Does this make him a genius? (even if he annoys you) – debatable. Depends on how you define genius. The most valid argument against his approach is his lack of advocacy for substance rather than self-fulfilling prophecies that will grow his own empire. Are these institutions exclusionary and rigged? Of course. Would we rather rally behind Kanye if he spent time ranting about institutional injustices that affect the masses? Absolutely!

Regarding fashion – there has been so much talk about Kanye’s skill set as a Designer, but he has really only had pockets of opportunity to actually exhibit what he’s capable of. The collaboration with french retailer A.P.C. was viewed as an overpriced tee shirt display and with the owner Jean Touitou’s recent “Last N*ggas In Paris” collection that he claims Kanye co-signed, one has to question the politics of Ye’s complaints.

Either way, that doesn’t stop Ye and today the artist has unveiled a collaboration with Adidas Originals that could give voice to critical assessment of whether Mr. West has the vision that can stand up in the serious fashion lane that he so desperately seeks an invitation from…

Runway

Kanye West x Adidas Originals – Fall 2015

UTILITARIAN

New York: Kanye West’s Fall collection for Adidas Originals mashes up performance and loungewear with a military utilitarian inspired sensibility. A mixture of luxe skins and furs with bare undergarment dressing, this presentation displayed a juxtaposition of function and comfort. Danskin elements such as hosiery and sweat pants are combined with oversized, androgynous, boxy outerwear that were a nod to military influenced fabrications. Surprising pops of fur and distressed shearling created rugged luxury, while the shapes and fit of an extensive amount of loop-back terry pieces felt too pedestrian to celebrate the subtle attempts at luxe styling. The palette made for a refreshing neutral refresh for Fall, with exciting departures from the black and military greens to a few pops of corals and reds peppered in on some of the female models. Overall the presentation included some unique outerwear pieces that were thoughtful and a clear homage to the Designer’s complex yet signature high-meets-low aesthetic, but it fell short in staying tight with substance, with all of the nude hosiery bases and bullet-hole distressed knitwear feeling redundant.

Silhouette: Oversized / Boxy / Cropped / Baggy

Color: Black / Olive / Chocolate / Nude / Khaki / Cherry Red / Melon / Peach / Forest Green / Heather Grey / Slate Grey

Key Items: Shearling jackets / Flesh toned Unitards / Sweatpants / Cropped Sweatshirts / Distressed Sweaters / Utility Vests

Materials: Fur / Leather / Looped-back Fleece / Wool / Twill / Cotton Jersey

Details + Trims: Patch Pockets / Velcro Closures / Twill Shoulder Patches / Bullet-hole Distressing

Accessories + Footwear: Nude Hosiery / Knee Socks / Seamless Undergarments / High-Top Sneakers / Suede Weekender Bags / Flesh toned knee-high boots

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Prints for Pennies: Duro x JCP & Prabal x Target

tumblr_md8u68EM2j1qb68x5o1_1280602686_524130150950829_1041041919_nDuro_400Joining the carnival of celebrated designers for affordable prices, Duro Olowu and Prabal Gurung will both descend upon middle America with Spring ’13 collections full of printed splendor. Long before being featured on the cover of Front Row Daily during this New York Fashion Week, Olowu has been a personal favorite.  In my opinion, there hasn’t been enough praise of his colorful, culturally referenced aesthetic and insertion of gorgeous pattern mixing (before everyone started doing it). The British-Nigerian designer received international accolades such as ‘Best New Designer’ at the 2005 British Fashion Awards, but this collaboration with JCPenney is a step toward introducing huge financial and commercial  success – not only for the designer but for the retailer and their  attempt to keep up with the ‘high-meets-low’ collaboration trend . JCP CEO Ron Johnson will certainly see more fashionable customers gracing his doors than ever before. Imagine ultra chic women like The Studio Museum in Harlem’s Chief Curator, Thelma Golden (also Olowu’s wife), shopping at the same retailer as Iowa soccer moms.  

prabal-gurung-for-targetScreen-Shot-2012-10-25-at-8.32.53-AM-640x354It’s no secret that Minneapolis based retail giant, Target was the pioneer for such collaborations, with the eponymous launch of the Isaac Mizrahi for Target collection. Back when I was Head Designer for that line, the challenge was bringing a runway vision at an affordable production cost, but by now Target has become an old pro and has since collaborated on  one-off collections with a laundry list of designers. The optimistic nature of a Prabal Gurung collection has also been rooted in the prints and colors used from this Nepal native since he emerged on the scene with his own collection. In addition to his signature tropical florals, Gurung’s Target collection includes painterly pop prints, vibrant neon colors, downtown silhouettes, and leather trims – all at an affordable price point. With his collection going “live” just yesterday, key pieces have already sold out and the timing to launch during NYFW, with well-executed commercials and skilled PR, has only helped this cheery assortment fly off the shelves.

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So far so good: NYFW

We’re at the halfway mark of NYFW  Sp ’12 collections, and would be remised if we didn’t pause to give a nod to some looks that we likey so far…Duro Olowu (love always)Derek Lam (well suited)Tracey Reese (oo la leather!)Lela Rose (color/pattern remix)Band of Outsiders (suspended)Vivienne Tam (sweet short set)Lacoste (color block party)

To be continued…

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